Savannah Photographer Dale Reagan

Before starting Adobe Lightroom2 and in general, I would suggest using some sort of workflow that protects you from image-file loss sooo, backups are a must.  While Lightroom can be used to ‘import’ files I find that it is a slower process than what I outline below.   After a photo session I usually proceed with something like this:

1. copy  images from camera media to work area on hard drive (using Windows XP File Explorer I open both the destination drive and the source drive – my USB card reader and the destination drive – I also create a new folder to place the images in and usually, I will use a date-based descriptive name like:  \my_image_folder\0801_tybee_client_camera_model\)
2. proceed with basic selection/evaluation of the images on the hard disk – erase any out-takes, rename the files, add meta-data (keywords, location, photographer, client information, etc.)   I use Adobe Photoshop Bridge for this (faster, lighter weight processing than using Lightroom – at least for my environment…)
3. copy ‘keepers’ to secondary, backup, external hard drive (which is only powered on long enough for the copy process to complete)
4. remove the files from the camera media after confirming that both hard disk sets are readable (i.e. using the camera tools I ‘format’ the camera storage card)
5. proceed with image editing (development changes, generate final images or prints) – for a long photo session this can take several hours/days; this is done in Lightroom)
6. copy processed images to external hard drive (remove the 1st, un-processed folders and replace with the final images)
7. create CD/DVD/Some_other_media permanent (read-only) backups of final image sets or just the best images
8. remove the ‘work’ images from step 1 (as long as you no longer need them and have adequate and tested backups on disk or external media)

Now things get more interesting.  All of the above was done using computer A.  Sometimes I want to use a second computer to access the files (on the computer and in the location where they already exist.)  I use the second computer because it has additional compute resources (more CPU power and RAM) so it will simply process things more quickly (in Lightroom.)  In such a case I would begin using the second computer at step #5 (image editing.)

Why use this or similar approaches?

• all files for a photo session are under the same folder tree,
• backup and replication of the file sets is simplified,
• Lightroom performance will actually be better since you are using a relatively small image database (i.e. limited to the size of the photo session as opposed to all of your images; the down side: you won’t have a master Lightroom catalog unless you create a separate catalog and import the images.  Based on my experience this can work fairly well if you limit the size and types of images in your master catalog, i.e. use smallish JPEGs, no RAW files,  with the same folder structure but on a separate file tree or master drive; I typically generate such smaller images during my workflow – your mileage may vary…)
• you don’t have to search for the Lightroom data – it’s all under the same folder tree.

When I started using Lightroom I had catalogs all over the place (wherever I had disk space) – now I use this scheme and life is simply better. 

The approach outlined below should work for either accessing Lightroom catalogs on external drives as well as network drives.  Based on my limited testing this works with Windows XP (and it may also work with Vista.)  It should however, work with any externally directly attached USB/Firewire disk drive.

The bad news - Lightroom does not support using ‘catalogs’ on ‘network drives‘.   I will guess that performance and potential file conflict issues are the reasons for this – if two computers attempt to access the same set of data then problems can result if network file locking is not being used (which I am guessing is part of the problem.)  The other item of concern would be network performance issues (i.e. it might ‘run’ really ’slow’…)

So, how do web get Lightroom2 to use a ‘network drive’? We trick to OS into showing that we are using a local drive by using the subst command (a DOS command.)

Some strategies for flexible image access

• use external drives
• network drives (using the ’subst’ command)
• use folder structures (an example below)

I use a naming convention similar to the sample below.

• job_id-source-folder_n+0
• job_id-source-folder_n+1
• LR-job_id_catalog
• LR-exports

Using the DOS subst command (virtual vs network drives)

Help subst – Associates a path with a drive letter.

SUBST [drive1: [drive2:]path]
SUBST drive1: /D

drive1: Specifies a virtual drive to which you want to assign a path.
[drive2:]path Specifies a physical drive and path you want to assign to a virtual drive.
/D Deletes a substituted (virtual) drive.

Type SUBST with no parameters to display a list of current virtual drives.

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On Windows XP – using: Start –> Run –> cmd (your drive letter may be different – open a command shell, change to the ‘D‘ drive, change to the ‘Clients‘ folder, and then use the ‘dir‘ command to see a list of folders. In this example the Lightroom catalog is stored in the folder LS-client_name_09-07-30. Exports (from Lightroom) are stored in the LR-exports folder and the folders that begin with numbers (i.e. 0729*) contain the images from the photo session.

1. Start –> Run –> cmd <enter>
2. d: <enter>
3. cd Clients_2009\0729_client_name <enter>
4. dir <enter>

Sample output from the dir command is shown below. (Yes, you can see similar information using your file system browser and no, you don’t need to do all of these steps.)

Volume in drive D is Client_Photos

Volume Serial Number is E011-4DE4
Directory of D:\Clients_2009\0729_client_name

07/30/2009  10:06 PM              0729_client_camera-01
07/30/2009  11:09 PM              0729_client_camera-02
07/31/2009  10:11 PM            13,698 Adobe Bridge Cache.bc
07/30/2009  09:58 PM                 8 Adobe Bridge Cache.bct
08/04/2009  02:55 PM              LR-exports
08/04/2009  03:42 PM              LS-client_name-09-07-30
3 File(s)         13,706 bytes
6 Dir(s)  39,526,641,664 bytes free

Before you can use the subst command you need to share the folder on the host computer. You need to give the share a unique name – I use simple names like ‘X’ or ‘Y’ (drive names NOT already used on the host computer.)  You must also have Windows configured for local network use on both computers.  Provided your Windows network is configured properly for resource sharing the steps are:

1. share resource on host computer
2. use subst command on second computer on the same network
   • subst  x:  \\2nd_computer_name\X
3. open the newly connected virtual drive in Windows Xp – browse the folders
4. open Lightroom and access the drive as if it were a ‘local’ drive

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Notes on this approach

• you can loose files/data – both systems must remain on during any period where shared files are being used
• this will be slower than using a directly attached drive or slower than using files in a local folder
• if you need speed then you should only use files in local folders – you could copy before and after edits between the two systems
• if you connect a network drive using the command:  net use X:  \\2nd_computer_name\X (or if you use the GUI and connect a network drive via browsing) then it is treated as a network drive; a virtual drive (created using subst) is treated as a local drive – that’s the reason Lightroom will work with it…
• you can use:  Start –> Run –> subst  x:  \\2nd_computer_name\X  OR
• you can use:  Start –> Run –> cmd (and then run subst  x:  \\2nd_computer_name\X from the DOS shell)
• if you use the Windows file browser the connected drive will show up as a network drive (somewhat confusing perhaps, but in this case what we care about is how Lightroom ’sees’ the drive.)
  

Is it a bird? a plane? a blob?  a digital dust spot?

Ever noticed strange looking dark blobs (spots that are usually small) in only some of your photos?  They don’t show up in every image – only when the camera is optimized to reveal them (for me this is usually when using a higher aperture and close to a hyper-focal distance focus setting.)  The image below shows some ‘real’ spots on a image from a camera that needs a sensor cleaning – if you notice similar spots in many or most of your images then a dirty sensor may be the problem.

Older digital SLR cameras are more susceptible to this problem – according to manufacturer’s descriptions of their newer model cameras with self-cleaning sensors.

Eventually, you will need this information: the process of changing lenses on DSLRs provides ample opportunities for dust to contaminate your ‘low-pass filter’ and/or image sensor.  After months of shooting I  noticed a ‘consistent dark spot’ on my images – sure enough a quick check revealed a ‘blob’ on the low-pass filter – cleaning was required.   A few weeks later I noticed that I seemed to be experiencing  some lens ‘vignetting’ – another review for ‘dust spots’ revealed a concentration of dust-like pixels in the corners of my images – another cleaning was in order.

Your camera manual should provide some information on ’sensor’ or ‘filter’ cleaning – the link below is for the brave folks who like to handle this themselves – otherwise you should see your camera dealer or seek an authorized repair facility for your camera.  While it is possible to ‘clean images’ in editing software I think everyone happier if the images don’t need such tweaking.  If you only have small ‘dust spots’ then your photo editing software may have simple tools to assist you in removing such spots, i.e.  the  ‘healing brush’ in Adobe Lightroom or Adobe Photoshop.

How do you prevent such digital image spots?

1. Only change your lenses in a ‘clean’ environment (in-doors, away from dust, sand, dirt, wind, etc.)
2. Clean your camera lens mounts prior to changing them.
3. Clean your camera lenses.
4. Have your digital camera professionally cleaned by an authorized service center.
5. Do your own cleaning with one of the kits available for this purpose (visit the link below or search for ‘digital sensor cleaner’ or similar terms.)

How  do you fix or clean dust spots in an image?

1. Use digital photo editing software to remove or replace the spots, i.e. use the healing brush tool found in Adobe Products like Adobe Photoshop CS4, Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 2, Bibble Labs or other tools.  In many cases it as simple as red-eye-removal:  a) select the tool, b) set your brush/tool size to be slightly larger than the spot and c) click on the spot to remove it.
2. Use your camera options that provide a somewhat automated image cleaning process, i.e. some Nikon camera models and software provide a multi-step process where you create a ’spot mask’ image which you use as a filter with the Nikon software and the end result is that the spots are removed.

Cleaning Digital Camera Sensors – this is a link to an external site devoted to this topic.  The site appears to offer a comprehensive review of solutions and approaches for cleaning your digital camera sensor.

• Digital Photography Books – General digital photography link to Amazon books and merchandise – a good resource for the latest books and gear and software available online.
• Digital Photography Suggested Reading List:  I found all of the the books below to be quite helpful (simple consumer feedback in action!)  Generally speaking, if you like step-by-step guides then my guess is that any text by Scott Kelby would be a good fit – just make sure that  the text covers the same version of software that you may be using…  If you are into ‘the details’ then Harold  Johnson and the late Bruce Fraser provide a good introduction to the background concepts as well as the evolution of current practices in digital color management and printing.  If you want to explore color adjustments with Photoshop then the books by Dan Margulis are great resources.  For a slightly different view of the creative process then consider the book by Vincent Versace.In many cases the information presented is applicable to newer versions of software, and, it is also common to see updated editions of these books covering the latest versions of the software.  The Digital Photography link above should connect you with many of the current titles.  Many of the authors and titles below provide new/updated versions of the titles below and many create a new book for every version available (so my summaries are probably still adequate for the books listed.)